Appling Designs


WOW!!.. This necklace has a story and will be talked about in a future blog.

The necklace was the topic of design lectures for appraisers, worn at the Grammy Award Show, traveled to New Zealand and featured in magazines and published in a book.

Alan Revere, president of Revere Academy and curator of the book “Masters Gemstones” wrote about this necklace on page 248:

American Ingenuity is an aptly titled piece. Spinning wheels of chrome Tourmalines set the piece in motion. Bezel-set gemstones soar on wires from a large hand carved and drilled Ametrine. Crisscrossing “belts” of flush set gemstones appear to turn drusy Onyx “gears.” Through these vivid and intricate components, Appling captures the buzz of industry. By boldly following his muse, he also captures the heart of viewers.” ~Alan Revere


This ring won 1st place in the Saul Bell Design Award competition 2006 and was the first ring where I used “HANDS”

“Hands to Water” ring… The feminine form embracing natures purist gift… Water.

Being inspired by the King Arthur legend, I wanted to create something honoring the “Lady of the Lake” but I did not want the Excalibur sword running through the stone, so I had the Lady magically touching, changing, and manipulating the water with her hands. The illusion of water was created by carving the back side of a 30 plus carat flawless Aquamarine (created by Michael Dyber). When viewing the stone through the top, the illusion of internal bubbles is realized as if looking into a water vortex. An optical lens was carved on the top of the Aqua to amplify the internal visual effects. I bead set (pave) blue and colorless Diamonds in a meandering formation to give an indication of flowing water. Two 18 karat yellow gold hands rise up from each shoulder of the ring and gently touch the Aqua. One arm has a white gold bracelet and the opposite hand has a white gold ring.



The necklace center is a large Citrine, Quartz created by Andrew Gulli of Gemfix. Along the backside of the Citrine are 3 holes drilled at critical angles. Within each of the 3 drilled holes a gemstone rod (Malachite, Turquoise, and Calcareous Coral) was placed. When you gaze through the top of the Citrine you can see internal reflections and refraction of gems within a gem, like a kaleidoscope. Bead set Diamond chevrons outline the Citrine’s v-prongs. Radiating outward from the base of the Citrine are tapering tube set Tsavorite, Spessartite, Tanzanite and Iolite gems.


Jewelry Arts Award 2nd place

The top of each earring starts with a half moon brilliant cut Diamond followed with 3 platinum chains individually tube set with a canary yellow Diamond in the center. The platinum chain is attached to a yellow gold looping bar, bead set and bright cut with gemstones. Near the top of the looping frame is a bezel set half moon shape drusy Onyx followed with a curved and corrugated white gold bar set with a 5 point star cut Diamond creating a shooting star coming from the midnight sky. The lower portions of the loop have platinum chains draping down with an attached/ soldered yellow gold cube with all sides contain gemstones.

BALANCE RINGbalance-ring

I hand cut the bi-color Tourmaline in the early 1990s and created the ring in 2003.

The center of the ring has a bi-color Tourmaline with one side red and the opposite side green. The side of the gemstone that is red, I made in red gold with levels of bead set Rubies and pink Sapphires. The green side of the gemstone was made with green gold and green Tsavorite, Garnet. The center Tourmaline actually is tri-color with a hint of yellow separating the red and green diagonally so I tube set a canary yellow Diamond on each side for true balance.



This ring was made using a highly tarnish resistant (Argentium) sterling silver and green gold. A Brazilian Green Tourmaline is bar set at the top with bead set Diamonds on each end. Below the green Tourmaline is a green gold curved double bar. The bottom bar rest on the finger and is bead set with Tsavorite Garnets. Reflections of the green gemstone bounces all over the interior of this ring and out the open shoulders (not shown in this picture).



Basically, the customer said “Jeff, make a tube engagement ring with my wedding Diamond”…. OK. The white gold ring consists of a tube set center round Diamond upon a large hollow tube. Inside of ring was made as NOT to flip on finger. Various sizes of Diamonds are randomly flush set along the large tube’s entirety and sand blasted to bring about more transition and brilliance. Small Diamonds are bead set outlying the ends of the tube.


This was a concept ring and won Jewelry Arts Award 1st place

Two faceted cultured Pearls protruding through platinum. Tsavorite Garnets are pave set on the side of the black Pearl to blend in with the Pearls green overtone. Pink Sapphires (not shown) are pave set on the side of the white Pearl to correlate with the Pearl’s pink rose overtone. The ring’s open center allows freedom from prongs and is self sizing in small increments. The inside of the ring is cushion shape and properly locks on to the finger with comfort. Typically a high polished area of a platinum ring will go dull with wear, so I hand engraved artwork along the outside borders to remedy any future visual dullness…. This ring was the beginning of SURFER RINGS!


Jewelry Arts Award 1st place

…after the Pearl Protrusion ring won first place I decided to make a more affordable ring with a hints of California. Surfer rings are a way of life, comfort, and visually unique. No need to be a surfer to wear these because we all surf life. Surfer rings are sterling silver and powder coated for color. White or black pearls are used.

TRIANGLE… big bang!


How a Master designer makes an engagement ring appear as $250,000+ with a minimal budget.

Using a 3.50 carat triangle brilliant cut Diamond because they face up big (12mm x 12mm) and fully framing it in a white platinum bezel makes 14mm in diameter. In order to hide the shallowness of the triangles bottom, I configured 3 triangular plates each pave set with 33 Diamonds making the triangle Diamond appear to have more depth below. The 3 pave Diamond plates protrude downward into a pink gold undercarriage set with pink Sapphires. The ring is balanced using bi-pass shoulders and splitting open the base of the squared off shank.

Note: A 10 carat round Diamond measures approximately 14mm in diameter retails between 300K to 500KThis ring’s 3.50 carat triangular Diamond with bezel measures 14.5mm giving the illusion of $500,000.… the whole ring was made on a budget well under 40K. 

a good designer can make you happy while charging a lot… a great designer can make you famous with very little.  ~Jeffrey Appling.